Nitro Spray Ceruse

Guitar Paint Guide – Nitro Spray Ceruse Finish

A ceruse guitar finish is a textured look that fills the open wood grain with a contrasting lighter or darker pigment, creating a sophisticated, aged effect. Discover the recommended kit and products for this nitro ceruse guitar project, all in stock in the UK: View the Guitar Dye & Clear Coat Bundle

Please take a moment to carefully review these instructions. They provide a clear overview of the nitrocellulose lacquer application process and help you avoid common mistakes. For a deeper understanding, explore our other guitar finishing and building guides, and browse the full range of guitar finishing supplies in the UK to enhance your project.

Before Starting

  • Always be very careful with your body and your sleeves. It's easy to cause a bump, scratch, or drop of polish. Don't rush.
  • Make sure your environment is always clean. A common issue is applying stain or varnish in a dusty setting, which results in an imperfect finish.
  • Don't varnish the fingerboard unless you know this is your preference. Normally, we apply nothing or just a little lemon or mineral oil (for Rosewood or Ebony) to maintain a comfortable feel.

Useful Products Available on The Guitar Fabrik

Only the strictly necessary tools are listed here. However, you can always enhance your result using additional tools and adjustments. These require experience in lutherie and are not covered here.

Sandpaper

Sand Paper

A range of sandpapers, P240, P400, P600, P800, P1000, & P1200, for sanding and polishing. Use them throughout the finishing process, especially for initial sanding and final polishing.

Copper Tape

Copper Tape

Recommended: The adhesive copper tape will prevents electromagnetic interference from pickups and improves sound quality.

Sanding Block

Sanding Block

Recommended: A 240-grit sanding block will be used in both during the early sanding and during the final polishing stages. Attach different grit papers to suit your different needs.

Gloves

Gloves

A pair (or two) of rubber gloves to protect your hands during some finishing stages.

Brush

Painting Brush

Optional: A wide brush will make the applying of a grain fille, a dye or a varnish evenly, easier.

Cloth

Cloth

Optional: It will be used for applying a dye, a Tru-Oil finish, a polishing product or to clean & wipe your guitar neck and body. A microfiber cloth is recommended.

Masking Tape

Masking Tape

It will be used to protect areas like the fretboard or bindings that shouldn't be painted or sanded.

Plastic Card

Plastic Card

Optional: Useful for smoothly and evenly applying th grain filler.

Vacuum Air Spray

Vacuum or Air Spray

Optional: Useful during sanding to remove dust and keep the workspace clean.

Fan

Fan

Recommended: For dry sanding during the final polishing phase.

With the ceruse paint kit, here is the list of tools and consumables you will receive to complete your ceruse guitar finish:

Grain Filler

Natural Grain Filler

The grain filler will be used to colour the grain of your wood by blending it with one of the stains you ordered. It also helps to close the open pores of the wood.

NS Primer

Nitrospray Primer

The clear guitar primer will be used between the wood stain and the vein stain. Its application makes the liming technique easier to control.

NS Color

Nitrospray Colour

The dye will be used to dye the body and / or the neck to colour your guitar as desired and enhance the beauty of your guitar wood.

Wood dyeWood dye2

Selected Dye (Dark)

This selected stain will be mixed with the wood filler to exclusively colour the wood grain using a ceruse technique.

NS Varnish

Nitrospray Varnish

The varnish will be used to highlight your finishes and protect your guitar and finishes over the years.

OVERVIEW OF THE FINISHING STEPS

Here are the steps to follow to achieve the expected nitro ceruse guitar finish using your kit:

  • Working environment
  • Wood & Grain preparation
  • Application of a first selected stain to dye the body of the wood
  • Application of the transparent primer to seal the initial colouration of your wood
  • Mixing your second selected stain with the wood filler to colour the grain.
  • Application of the wood filler-stain mixture to fill the pores of the grain
  • Application of the primer to seal the entirety of your work
  • Varnishing
  • Polishing (optional)

The different methods and practices defined in this guide have been extensively tested. Strictly following these instructions will lead to the expected results, although it is possible to do some things differently. This method has been developed to make it as easy as possible for the user to undertake the finishing of their guitar and to obtain a professional result at a lower cost. For other techniques, see our full guitar finishing range, including options such as a polyurethane guitar finish.

To get a clean and professional finish on your guitar, it's essential to prepare your workspace and tools properly before starting. Here's how to set up your painting environment.

Choose a stable indoor space:

  • Work indoors in a clean, dust-free and well-ventilated room.
  • Avoid outdoor areas to prevent contamination from wind, insects or humidity.
  • Let the guitar wood rest in this space for 48 hours before finishing to adjust to temperature and humidity.

Prepare how you'll hold the parts:

  • Hang the body and neck using screws or hooks through strap button or tuner holes.
  • For spraying, fix a stick into the neck pocket to hold the body safely while working.
  • For sanding and manual staining, lay parts flat on padded surfaces like foam or cushions.
Guitar Hanged

You can also fix the body to a piece of wood. This allows you to hold it in your hand when finishing with a spray or to put it in a clamp:

Guitar Fixed - Step 1
Guitar Fixed - Step 2
Guitar Fixed - Step 3
Guitar Fixed - Step 4
Guitar Fixed - Step 5

Plan your workflow:

  • Decide where each step will take place: staining, spraying, drying, etc.
  • Allow enough space for parts to dry between coats, without touching anything.
  • Expect the full finishing process to take from one to four weeks depending on the products used.

Check your materials:

  • Make sure you have all the tools and products listed in your finishing kit.
  • Read through all steps and instructions before starting to avoid surprises mid-process.
Guitar Finishing 1
Guitar Finishing 2
Guitar Finishing 3
Guitar Finishing 4



CERUSE EFFECT: USE OF THE METALLIC BRUSH

Before sanding we invite you to use the wire brush to increase the grain depth. To do this, simply brush the wood in the direction of the grain to open the pores. Do not hesitate to rub strongly: the more the pores of the wood are open, the more intense the contrast between the two selected colours of your ceruse guitar finish will be.
Before brushing After brushing

Mahogany wood before (left image) and after (right image) the use of the metallic brush. The pores of the wood are now more open.


After brushing 2

Ash wood after using the metallic brush.

As shown in the pictures below, you can also add a rubber band to your wire brush to further localise the pore opening of the ash wood.

Rubber position 1 Rubber position 2

NITRO SPRAY CLEAR PRIMER

GENERAL INFORMATION

This step is the most delicate in the application of our liming technique. It serves in particular to:

  • Seal your previous work,
  • Protect the body stain when applying the wood filler-stain mixture defined in the following section,
  • Control the amount of coloured grain surface.

The diagram below illustrates the different stages and layers related to the colouring and filling of the wood. Note especially the protective layer provided by the guitar primer and the fact that by applying more or less primer, you can potentially completely block the wood pores.
Ceruse Layers Diagram

Here is some additional information to keep in mind:

  • Before applying the primer, make sure your wood has been sanded with P600 grit. And make sure to remove any dust with fan or using a hair dryer.
  • It is crucial to apply layers as thin as possible to achieve a smooth finish.
  • We recommend between 2 and 4 thin layers of primer for an optimal result whilst ensuring the security of your liming effect.
  • Inspect your wood thoroughly after each layer to ensure everything is proceeding well.

PREPARATION

Before opening, we recommend shaking your nitrospray clear primer. Then, open it and you can mix it a bit more – using a wooden stick, for example – to ensure that your paint is homogeneous. Place the guitar wood you want to finish as described in section III.

APPLICATION

Apply the primer layers as thinly as possible. Use a wide brush or a clean cloth (preferably microfibre). Apply the primer in one direction, following the grain if possible. Do the top, the sides, and then the back. Do not sand between layers unless there are drips or orange peel. If there are drips or orange peel, sand that area with P600 without applying strong pressure. Also, make sure to wait for the primer to completely dry before applying each new layer (2 hours is recommended for the first two layers, then wait overnight). Only sand for your final layer with no pressure, using P800 only to remove imperfections. This careful nitrocellulose lacquer application is the key to a clean ceruse result.

MIXING AND APPLYING GRAIN FILLER + DYE

GENERAL INFORMATION

With the previously applied stain and primer, the goal now is to colour only the grain. To achieve this, the idea is to fill the grain - the pores of the wood - with a wood filler that you have previously coloured.

MIX YOUR WOOD FILLER WITH YOUR STAIN

Prepare your mixture to colour the grain as desired. Mix the wood filler with the stain. To control the intensity, you can dilute it with white spirit. Also, the final texture of your paste should be somewhat like custard. It should be easy enough to apply and scrape. It is important to be able to scrape your coloured paste well to remove any residue on the wood: only the pores of the wood should be filled and coloured! To apply the wood filler, we recommend wearing gloves, although it is not harmful. We suggest mixing our wood filler with a little bit of water, let's say 10% warm water. This will allow for easier application and prevent the formation of lumps that would need to be sanded diligently.

PREPARATION

To apply the pore filler we invite you to wear gloves although this is not harmful. We suggest that you mix our wood filler with a little water. Let's say 10-20% lukewarm water. This will allow for easier application and avoid creating lumps that would have to be sanded down painstakingly.

APPLICATION

To apply the pore sealer you can either use a cloth or a plastic card. Our preference is to use a cloth for its application and a plastic card to remove the excess. Collect the grain filler with your cloth and rub, pressing firmly in a circular fashion throughout your body (and neck, if you have decided to fill the grain of your neck too). The idea is to fill the pores, and you can imagine that you have to push the sealer into the pores, the interstices of the wood. Cover the surface, wait 2-3 min, no more, then scrape off the excess pore sealer from the wood surface with the plastic card provided. The goal is for the filler to only sit in the interstices and thus maintain a smooth surface. It is preferable to scrape perpendicular to the direction of the grain so as not to remove the filler lodged in the interstices of the veining. Then do the other surfaces in the same way. In more difficult-to-scrape areas you can use a clean cloth in place of a plastic card to remove excess sealer. Remember to treat the edges as well. These areas are easy to overlook.

Once all the surfaces are done, let dry for 1 hour then sand with P400 grit sandpaper as defined in the previous section above. Be careful not to sand too much. You don't want to remove the sealer you just applied. Sand the edges carefully as well.
Finally, inspect your work. You can easily see if all of the pores are filled by looking at the surface at an angle, against bright light radiating obliquely toward the surface. If you missed any areas, you can always reapply wood filler.

From there you can do this a second time if you want to make some adjustment and further darken the grain, but in our experience this is not necessary. If you are satisfied then you will have to wait 24 hours to apply any finish after filling the grain.


Grain Filling 1 Grain Filling 2
Grain Filling 3 Grain Filling 4

Seal your work with primer: Once you are satisfied with your work, you can seal your current finish with a clear guitar primer. This is not mandatory as the varnish will take care of it, but since you have some left…

General Information

Most store-bought electric guitars are finished with polyurethane, but we have opted to provide you with a nitrocellulose spray lacquer (nitrospray). Nitrocellulose lacquer offers a traditional, vintage-style finish that enhances the natural resonance of the wood. However, it requires more care in application and longer drying times compared to water-based alternatives. Please keep in mind the following recommendations.

  • Before starting the varnishing step, make sure your wood has been sanded to at least P400.
  • Apply very thin coats to achieve an even and smooth finish.
  • Applying nitrocellulose lacquer is a delicate process, so take your time.
  • Unless you prefer otherwise, fretboards are typically left unvarnished. Instead, consider applying Tru-Oil or lemon oil for better playability.
  • Inspect the surface carefully after each coat to detect any imperfections or drips.

Preparation

Before use, shake the nitrocellulose spray can thoroughly for at least 2 minutes. It is crucial to ensure the lacquer is well-mixed for an even application. Prepare your guitar body as described in the previous sections.

Varnishing with Nitrocellulose
Varnishing with Nitrocellulose

Application

Apply the nitrocellulose lacquer in thin, even coats. Hold the spray can approximately 20-30 cm from the surface and spray in smooth, overlapping passes. Work in a dust-free, well-ventilated area, preferably with protective gear such as a mask and gloves.

Varnishing with Nitrocellulose

Always spray along the grain direction. Start with the top, then move to the sides and back. Allow sufficient drying time between coats to prevent defects.

For the first two coats, do not sand between layers unless you notice significant drips or orange peel texture. If needed, use P600 sandpaper for minor corrections. Ensure that each coat is completely dry before applying the next one. Given nitrocellulose's properties, drying times will vary depending on humidity and temperature.

For the third coat onward, allow at least 24 hours of drying time before sanding lightly with P800 sandpaper. This gentle sanding helps the next coat adhere properly and ensures a smooth surface.

The final coats should be applied with extra care. Let the lacquer cure for at least 7 days before proceeding to the final sanding and polishing steps. Below is a summary table of the varnishing process.

Coats Waiting Time (after one layer) Type of sanding
1st coat 1 hour None (P400 if drips or orange peel)
2nd coat 24 hours P1200 light sanding
3rd coat 1 hour None
4th coat 4 hours P1500 light sanding
xth coat 4 hours No sanding (wait for curing)
Final coat 1/2 day x number of coats No sanding (wait for curing)
Tip:

You can also incorporate wet sanding instead of dry sanding for an even smoother finish. Use high grit waterproof sandpaper (P800–P2000), a sanding block, and clean water with a few drops of dish soap — it acts as a lubricant and helps prevent scratches. Soak your sandpaper in water for 10–15 minutes before use, and lightly moisten the guitar surface as well. Ideally, keep both sandpaper and surface damp while sanding. Gently sand the surface, and frequently wipe it down to inspect your progress. This reduces airborne dust and gives a finer result, but requires a delicate touch to avoid sanding through the finish layers.

Caution:

Wet sanding is not suitable for Tru-Oil finishes: water can damage the oil layer and may seep into the wood. Always use dry sanding techniques when working with oil-based finishes. Also, never wet sand bare wood — this technique is meant for sealed, colored, or clear-coated surfaces only. Ensure the surface is completely dry before applying the next coat.

Want to dive deeper into the differences and best use cases for wet vs. dry sanding? Check out our full guide here.

Once all coats have been applied, let the lacquer cure completely. If you have applied 7 coats, allow at least 7 days before final sanding and polishing. The longer you wait, the better the finish will be.

After curing, remove the masking tape from areas such as the fretboard, nut, or bindings. If the bindings have absorbed some color, gently scrape them with a razor blade to restore their original appearance.

Note:

This finishing kit does not include a final polish, which is optional. Even without it, you should achieve a smooth and glossy result. However, if you desire a higher shine, you can undertake additional polishing steps, including level sanding, polishing sanding, and buffing. These steps are beyond the scope of this guide.

Nitrospray Finish

General Information

Polishing is optional, and normally, even without it, you should already have achieved a very nice result. However, if you want more shine and an even smoother surface, we invite you to undertake this final finishing step. Polishing can be divided into three stages: leveling sanding to remove the last defects, sanding for polishing, and finally buffing. These steps will be further detailed below. Also, take note:

  • Always be careful when sanding, applying very light pressure, especially near the edges. It is easy to remove varnish if you press too hard!
  • Always ensure you remove all dust generated by your work environment or sanding. One idea is to run a fan simultaneously to remove dust immediately.
  • From time to time, "tap" or rub your sand paper on a mat to remove embedded dust.
  • For a water-based finish, do not sand with water. Use a dry sanding method. If you sand with water on a water-based varnish that has not completely dried, you may slightly remove your varnish layer.
  • When using water, always use room temperature water. Cold water can damage and crack your finish.

Before starting, the wood should have already been sanded with P800 or P1000 grit in the previous step.

Preparation

Before you begin, make sure you have both dry and wet sand paper on hand in grits P1000, P1200, P1500, P2000, and P2500. For optimal results during sanding, we recommend placing your guitar on a soft, stable surface—like a carpet or thick towel—to protect the body from scratches and ensure even pressure as you work.

Processing

Leveling Sanding: This step is only necessary if you still have localized imperfections (such as drips or significant roughness). In this case, you should sand down to P400 to remove the imperfections, then progress to P600, P800, and P1000. For localized sanding, the sandpaper is smaller, and a smaller sanding block—is used, as it is a very localized sanding process.

Sanding Block 1
Sanding Block 2
Tip:

For sanding guitar edges and contours, flexible tools like a foam tip, rubber eraser, cork block, or even a thermal insulation sheath wrapped in sandpaper conform easily to curves, offering better control without flattening rounded areas. Mixing these lets you adapt quickly to different shapes while staying gentle on the wood.

Polishing Sanding: For the polishing step, refer to section IV. However, please note that this time, you should apply minimal pressure while sanding. The goal is to erode the surface, not remove material, but to eliminate slight surface imperfections created during the varnish application.

Start sanding with P1000 grit, then move to P1200, P1500, P2000, and finally P2500. Some prefer to continue, but you won't notice a significant difference. Always remove dust using a running fan to prevent it from scratching your finish further!

Finishing

At this stage, you should have a slightly whitened finish with micro-scratches removed. You can see this clearly by placing the wood near a light source and tilting it slightly to create reflections that make these scratches more visible. If you see micro-scratches, return to P1000 grit and work up to P2500.

before polishing
after polishing
Before (left) & after (right) sanding

It is now necessary to buff your wood to transform the whitish surface into an ultra-glossy finish.

Buffing

This is the final step, where additional products must be applied. You can either use dish soap mixed with water or apply dedicated polishing products, such as those available on our website. In particular, our polishing kit contains everything necessary for sanding, polishing, and hand buffing (a specific guide for polishing with this finishing kit is also included). Naturally, using products specifically designed for guitar buffing will provide much better results.

The selected polishing product can be applied either by hand or by machine.

By Hand: We recommend using microfiber cloths. Rub in circular motions, applying light pressure. Rinse and continue until you are satisfied with the result.

micro-fiber cloth

With a Machine: While dedicated polishing machines exist, you can easily use a drill with a polishing attachment to buff your guitar effectively. Always keep the drill moving at a moderate speed to avoid overheating the surface, as excess friction can damage the finish. Start with a firm pad for initial polishing, then switch to a softer pad to enhance the shine and achieve a smooth, glossy finish. Be aware that some areas may be too tight or curved for the machine to reach.

Polisher
Note:

During this final buffing process, wearing a respirator and protective goggles is also advised, especially when using a polishing machine. Polishing product particles will be sprayed into the air.

Thank you for following our nitro ceruse guitar tutorial! Whether you are starting fresh or planning a nitro refinish guitar project, feel free to check our products, all in stock in the UK with fast UK delivery: {{widget type="Magento\Catalog\Block\Product\Widget\Link" template="product/widget/link/link_inline.phtml" id_path="product/3051"}} &{{widget type="Magento\Catalog\Block\Product\Widget\Link" template="product/widget/link/link_inline.phtml" id_path="product/3052"}}. For more techniques, browse our complete guitar finishing guides.

Back to blog

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.