Guitar Headstock Shapes: Names, Styles and How to Choose

6-in-line, 3+3 and the other tuner layouts

Before the outline, look at where the tuners sit. Every headstock is one of these layouts:

• 6-in-line: all six tuners on one side, as on the Tele and the Strat. Easy to reach, and the strings run almost straight past the nut. The headstock is usually flat, so it needs string trees to hold the thin strings down.
• 3+3: three tuners on each side, as on LP, SG and most acoustic guitars. The headstock is angled back, which presses the strings onto the nut without string trees.
• 4+2: four tuners on top, two below. A compromise that keeps the string pull straight on a shorter headstock.
• Reverse 6-in-line: the tuners sit on the treble side, so the low strings run longer past the nut. Players say the bass strings feel a little tighter.
• Headless: no headstock at all. The tuners move to the bridge, which makes the guitar short and light.

Headstock shapes by name: from 6-in-line to headless

TL-style: the original 6-in-line

The simplest outline: a flat paddle with a small cut-out on the side. Clean, light and easy to make. Find it on our Tele neck.

ST-style: the larger curved 6-in-line

Wider and rounder, with the deep curve at the tip. It balances the long body and is the most copied outline in the world. See the Strat neck.

Sword or pointy

A narrow 6-in-line that ends in a sharp point. It is the 1980s superstrat look, popular in rock and metal, and it is the longest of the three on our necks. Our sword headstock neck has it, from £109.

Open book (3+3)

The classic 3+3 with a small notch in the top edge, so the outline looks like an open book. Angled back, with a slight flare towards the top. On LP-style and many acoustic guitars: see our LP-style neck.

Straight 3+3

A simpler 3+3 with straight sides and a flat or rounded top. Easier to cut, common on SG-style and budget guitars. See the SG neck.

PR-style 3+3

A 3+3 with curved, flowing sides and a small point at the top. It keeps the strings almost straight behind the nut, which helps tuning stability. See the PR-style neck.

Firebird-style

A long 6-in-line with a stepped outline, angled back like a 3+3. The originals used banjo-style tuners mounted from the back. See the Firebird-style neck.

Hockey stick and banana

Long 6-in-line shapes from the 1980s that curve down at the tip, like a hockey stick, or bend in a long arc, like a banana. Found on angular rock guitars.

Scroll and other unique shapes

Violin-style scrolls, cut-outs, split tips: unique guitar headstock shapes are where makers sign their work. Any outline works as long as the tuner posts line up with the string slots in the nut.

Paddle: a blank to shape yourself

A plain rectangle with no tuner holes. It is not a style to play as is: it is the starting point for your own design. Our paddle neck gives you the full neck with the headstock left uncut, from £69.

Headstock shape names at a glance

Flat or angled: what the headstock angle does

The strings need to press firmly on the nut or they buzz and lose sustain. There are two ways to do it:

• Flat headstock (most 6-in-line shapes): the headstock is in line with the neck, often set a little lower. String trees pull the thin strings down. Simple and strong, made from one piece of wood.
• Angled headstock (most 3+3 shapes): the headstock tilts back, usually by about 10 to 17 degrees. No string trees needed, but the angle cuts across the grain, so it is the weak point when a guitar falls. That is why many angled headstocks have a volute (a small bump behind the nut) or a scarf joint (a second piece of wood glued on at an angle).

Does headstock shape change the tone?

Very little. The outline is style. What you can feel is the mass and the angle: a heavier headstock can add a touch of sustain, and the angle changes how tight the strings feel. A bigger headstock also makes the guitar more neck-heavy on a strap. Choose the shape you like looking at: it is the part of the guitar you see most when you play.

Why copies have a slightly different headstock

The big guitar makers protect their headstock outlines as trademarks. That is why style guitars and kits, ours included, use outlines that are close to the classic shapes but not identical: the curve is moved, the tip is shorter, the notch is different. It is also why a headstock is the best place to make a guitar your own.

How to design your own headstock shape

Starting from our paddle neck, a custom headstock shape takes an afternoon with a jigsaw or a coping saw, files and sandpaper. Keep these rules in mind:

• Strings first. Draw the six string lines from the nut slots and place the tuner posts where the strings pull as straight as possible. Then draw the outline around the posts.
• Leave room around each tuner. At least 8 to 10 mm of wood between a tuner hole and the edge.
• Mind the size. Our three 6-in-line shapes measure 170 to 189 mm from the nut. Much longer and the guitar gets neck-heavy, and it may not fit your case.
• Make a template. Draw it full size on card or hardboard, cut it out, and try it on the neck before you saw.
• Drill before you shape the edges. Drill the tuner holes square to the face with a pillar drill, then cut the outline.

Would rather not cut it yourself? Our custom guitar neck comes with your choice of sword, TL-style or ST-style headstock, finished in clear, black or white, from £114.

Finish and logo

A painted headstock in the body colour, called a matching headstock, is a classic custom touch. Then add your name or logo: our custom headstock decals are made from your own design, and our guide shows how to apply a headstock decal before the clear coat.

FAQ